12.04.2011

note to self - runny pecan pies

I made this recipe for our holiday party, and unlike other times I 've used this exact same recipe, it got rather runny.  So I went looking for advice.

From the Pie Expert.  All credit goes here.

Hello,
I have a problem with my pecan pie filling always being runny. I’ve tried to cook the pie longer but then the pecans get too toasted and taste burnt. Please help!
Thanks~
Sad over a runny pie
Dear Sad,
Sorry it took me so long to get back to you! So this again is a common problem, and one with many potential sources. The reason pecan pies set up in the first place has to do with the egg and sugar to liquid ratio. Cooking the egg/sugar/liquid mixture makes a custard, and so if one of these custard components is off, you'll have a problem. Some pecan pies have fillings that are cooked beforehand on the stovetop. I've read that during this step it's important that you let that cook slowly without stirring, or the filling will be runny. I am not sure on the science there... and kind of think that is superstition... but it can't hurt to try it.
If you are using a recipe that *doesn't* precook the filling, you might try out a recipe which does... because then you do some of the thickening before
A second thing to try is to adjust the liquid, so that the liquid:egg ratio is heavier on the egg. So if you are adding any liquids (like bourbon), try reducing the quantity... or using larger eggs (so if you usually buy large eggs, switch to jumbo.
A third source of runny-ness could be your oven. If it is cooler than you think (you could test this with a thermometer) you could have problems. If you are cooking longer at lower temps you might have problems getting that custard to set.
finally, you could try this recipe out:

1 cup dark corn syrup
3/4 cup sugar
6 tablespoons butter
3 large eggs
pinch salt
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
2 cups pecans (i like using whole pecan halfs, but you could also use 2 cups chopped)
9" unbaked pie crust

Place rack in lowest 3rd of oven, preheat oven to 350 F
Filling: combine corn syrup and sugar in a saucepan and stir to mix. Place over low heat and bring it to a boil, without stirring. Remove from heat, add butter and stir gently to melt butter. In a mixing bowl, whisk eggs to break up and whisk in salt and vanilla. Whisk in syrup and butter mixture, being careful not to overmix (to avoid getting air into the filling which will result in a foamy layer on top of your pie during baking). Let cool.

Assemble: spread the pecans into the bottom of the crust. Skim any foam from the top of your filling and then pour it over the nuts. With a fork I usually arrange the pecans so they are all coated with some filling and right-side up.

Bake: Place the pie on a cookie sheet and stick it in the oven for about 45 minutes, until the filling is set (if you grab the sides (use potholders!) and twist the pie back and forth gently, the sides should stay put, but the center should jiggle a little) and the center will be puffed up. Remove from the oven, remember that the pie will continue to cook for a while after you take it out, so the middle will set up. Also, it's normal for the pie's center to deflate a little. Serve warm or at room temp.

good luck!
- the Pie Expert

Although, upon further reflection, I think I may have made this one last year.  Maybe that's why it was different, hmmm?

*Update 12.2012*  It is indeed the James Beard recipe from Epicurious that is not so runny.  Two fewer eggs will do that.  Made it twice this Christmas season both with fantastic results :)